![]() Mark the center of the tapered columns top and bottom, then use a level and shims to plumb them up.Ĭheck your work. Glue and nail the base to the plywood backers with 2-in. panel molding so it just covers the joint between the bottom rail and the first plywood backer.Īdd the base. plywood to the bottom of each leg, flush all around, for solid attachment of the base detail and panel molding.Ĭover the joint. plywood into the top of each leg assembly, and secure with 1-1/2-in. Leave the panels out of the side sections until after glue-up to make space for clamps. Make sure to undercut each frame-and-panel section before assembling them into legs. Apply glue to the side stiles and tack the front assembly to the sides with headless pins.Ĭlamp it up. Clip the corners of the plywood to fit in the rabbet, then apply a bead of glue around the panel edge, set it in place, and secure it with 5⁄8-in.-long crown staples.Īttach the pieces. Set the router depth to the thickness of the panel and rout a rabbet around the interior of the back of each assembled frame-and-panel section. Drill two pocket holes into the back of each rail, apply glue to the ends, and secure them to the rails with pocket screws. plywood to determine the cut angles needed for the rails-in this case, 2°. ![]() Make full-scale drawings of the tapered legs on 1/4-in. After assembling each section’s frame, undercut its bottom to match the slope of the taper to cleanly meet the backing for the vertical base.ĭraw the legs. The tapered portions of each leg are made from three butt- jointed frame-and-panel sections. Though it looks complex, I built this in my shop in a day using basic carpentry tools. The joinery is kept simple for quick production and minimal fuss. Moldings are used strategically to hide plywood edges and joints. Those that aren’t seen in the final product add rigidity and strength, and provide backing for nailing other layers. This mantel is made from many layers-some visible and some not. That is the greatest compliment a trim carpenter can receive. The homeowner loved the finished piece, and immediately asked about adding other trimwork to the job. ![]() To lower the cost and build time, I used a mix of Baltic-birch plywood and solid poplar, and put it all together with a variety of fasteners and wood glue. Building with traditional joinery and solid wood is expensive and time consuming. The biggest difference between my version and the original craftsman pieces is the construction. There are some distinguishing characteristics of this style, notably tapered columns, straight lines, and the use of stain, rather than paint, to accentuate the use of natural materials. So I was thrilled when a client asked me to build what I call a craftsman- style mantel. I love highly detailed mantels, but a lot of fireplaces today have a simple timber mantel or no mantel at all. Building mantels has always been one of my favorite finish-carpentry jobs-I’m pretty sure I’ve built more than 200 of them.
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